- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
I fixed the overheating issues... just had to change out the part ahead of the trailer hitch.
EcoBoost
- Thread starter rholbrook
- Start date
Chicken Corners
Active Member
- Location
- Shakedown St. NV./ Saratoga Springs
Never can have enough trucks!
Corban_White
Well-Known Member
- Location
- Payson, AZ
I've been fighting overheating while towing issues on my 2012 for a couple years. I monitor the water, trans and charge air (IAT2) temps digitally over the OBD2 port. The factory gauge doesn't move from 130* to 230*. It hits yellow at 240* and red around 245*~250*. I went for the most expensive thing first, new bigger blingy full race aluminum radiator. 
$850. Didn't change a thing. 😥 Might have made it worse. 😭 Since it only gets hot when I'm in the boost and cools off very quickly as soon as I crest a hill, I decided to do some testing. If the outside temp is under 70* I can drive however I want and it won't get above 230*. Obviously when it's close to 100* outside it heats up much faster.
So, I got a 4 channel wireless thermometer and strapped the probes on each side of the radiator, the thermostat housing and the underhood air temp. They were strapped on the outside so obviously not accurate water temps, but I was able to make decent comparisons. What I noticed was at times I saw a differential temperature across the radiator, but at other times both sides of the radiator were exactly the same temp. I believe this is indicative of the position of the thermostat (open = temperature drop, closed = same temp). What I found strange was that at times the stat would be closed (presumably) when the engine was still reading 220*+ with the factory 188* thermostat. So I started looking in the service manual at the coolant flow diagram and noticed that Ford decided to put the thermostat on the cold side of the radiator. The wax pellet side of the thermostat is on the engine side and it also has a restrictor plate that partially blocks off the (rather large) bypass pipe that allows hot water to short circuit the radiator when the thermostat opens.
My theory is that when the thermostat starts to open, the cold water from the radiator rushes in and pushes all the hot water from the engine away from the wax pellet on the thermostat, causing it to close, even though the engine is still hot. So, I installed a Reische Performance 170* thermostat. This helped, but didn't solve the issue. The next thing I tried was an inline thermostat housing from JEGS. I installed it with a 180* thermostat in the hot radiator hose, removing the stat in the OEM location. I screwed up and installed it in the middle of the hose, which meant it never got hot enough to open. So, I dropped another $50 on a new radiator hose and promptly cut it in half, this time as close to the engine as I could. This functioned, but still had some issues. A lot of water was bypassing the radiator and sometimes (cool outside, quick heating of the engine from startup), the stat wouldn't open at all. So I drilled a small hole in the stat so it would always see engine temp water and I gutted the factory stat and put it back in so that the bypass restrictor plate was still functional. That brings us to today.
I've been driving the truck like this for a couple months but I have not had a chance to pull a heavy load yet. That opportunity will come this Friday, when I will be pulling a large enclosed car hauler (should be 7000-9000 pounds once I get it loaded up) from Lehi down to Arizona (about an hour north of Phoenix). I will update after that.
$850. Didn't change a thing. 😥 Might have made it worse. 😭 Since it only gets hot when I'm in the boost and cools off very quickly as soon as I crest a hill, I decided to do some testing. If the outside temp is under 70* I can drive however I want and it won't get above 230*. Obviously when it's close to 100* outside it heats up much faster.So, I got a 4 channel wireless thermometer and strapped the probes on each side of the radiator, the thermostat housing and the underhood air temp. They were strapped on the outside so obviously not accurate water temps, but I was able to make decent comparisons. What I noticed was at times I saw a differential temperature across the radiator, but at other times both sides of the radiator were exactly the same temp. I believe this is indicative of the position of the thermostat (open = temperature drop, closed = same temp). What I found strange was that at times the stat would be closed (presumably) when the engine was still reading 220*+ with the factory 188* thermostat. So I started looking in the service manual at the coolant flow diagram and noticed that Ford decided to put the thermostat on the cold side of the radiator.
The wax pellet side of the thermostat is on the engine side and it also has a restrictor plate that partially blocks off the (rather large) bypass pipe that allows hot water to short circuit the radiator when the thermostat opens.My theory is that when the thermostat starts to open, the cold water from the radiator rushes in and pushes all the hot water from the engine away from the wax pellet on the thermostat, causing it to close, even though the engine is still hot. So, I installed a Reische Performance 170* thermostat. This helped, but didn't solve the issue. The next thing I tried was an inline thermostat housing from JEGS. I installed it with a 180* thermostat in the hot radiator hose, removing the stat in the OEM location. I screwed up and installed it in the middle of the hose, which meant it never got hot enough to open. So, I dropped another $50 on a new radiator hose and promptly cut it in half, this time as close to the engine as I could. This functioned, but still had some issues. A lot of water was bypassing the radiator and sometimes (cool outside, quick heating of the engine from startup), the stat wouldn't open at all. So I drilled a small hole in the stat so it would always see engine temp water and I gutted the factory stat and put it back in so that the bypass restrictor plate was still functional. That brings us to today.
I've been driving the truck like this for a couple months but I have not had a chance to pull a heavy load yet. That opportunity will come this Friday, when I will be pulling a large enclosed car hauler (should be 7000-9000 pounds once I get it loaded up) from Lehi down to Arizona (about an hour north of Phoenix). I will update after that.
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
I've been fighting overheating while towing issues on my 2012 for a couple years. I monitor the water, trans and charge air (IAT2) temps digitally over the OBD2 port. The factory gauge doesn't move from 130* to 230*. It hits yellow at 240* and red around 245*~250*. I went for the most expensive thing first, new bigger blingy full race aluminum radiator.
So, I got a 4 channel wireless thermometer and strapped the probes on each side of the radiator, the thermostat housing and the underhood air temp. They were strapped on the outside so obviously not accurate water temps, but I was able to make decent comparisons. What I noticed was at times I saw a differential temperature across the radiator, but at other times both sides of the radiator were exactly the same temp. I believe this is indicative of the position of the thermostat (open = temperature drop, closed = same temp). What I found strange was that at times the stat would be closed (presumably) when the engine was still reading 220*+ with the factory 188* thermostat. So I started looking in the service manual at the coolant flow diagram and noticed that Ford decided to put the thermostat on the cold side of the radiator.
My theory is that when the thermostat starts to open, the cold water from the radiator rushes in and pushes all the hot water from the engine away from the wax pellet on the thermostat, causing it to close, even though the engine is still hot. So, I installed a Reische Performance 170* thermostat. This helped, but didn't solve the issue. The next thing I tried was an inline thermostat housing from JEGS. I installed it with a 180* thermostat in the hot radiator hose, removing the stat in the OEM location. I screwed up and installed it in the middle of the hose, which meant it never got hot enough to open. So, I dropped another $50 on a new radiator hose and promptly cut it in half, this time as close to the engine as I could. This functioned, but still had some issues. A lot of water was bypassing the radiator and sometimes (cool outside, quick heating of the engine from startup), the stat wouldn't open at all. So I drilled a small hole in the stat so it would always see engine temp water and I gutted the factory stat and put it back in so that the bypass restrictor plate was still functional. That brings us to today.
I've been driving the truck like this for a couple months but I have not had a chance to pull a heavy load yet. That opportunity will come this Friday, when I will be pulling a large enclosed car hauler (should be 7000-9000 pounds once I get it loaded up) from Lehi down to Arizona (about an hour north of Phoenix). I will update after that.
Wow, good amount of tech and problem solving, Corban! Hopefully your trip goes well without overheating issues!
rholbrook
Well-Known Member
- Location
- Kaysville, Ut
I am getting ready to head to Lake Powell and decided to get some things done on my EB. Started to get hot towing so I had all the coolants replaced, even the trans cooler. Had the Belts replaced since they are the original belts with 188K on them. Had the AC recharged, it was 11lbs low so now it makes sense that it just seemed like it wasn't cooling like it should be but then again, it has been at or near 100. After looking at Greg's Clean the Radiator Comment, I decided to spray mine with foaming engine degreaser, let it sit for a while and sprayed it again, then I took the secondary water hose with a good spraying nozzle and went for it. I could not believe the amount of dirt that came out of the radiator. I can't help but believe that this had to contribute to some of the cooling issues but I'm no mechanic.
When I got it back, I drove it around but not far and then Sunday I had to go to my nephew's mission farewell in West Point and on the way back home it overheated. I pulled over, let it cool for a bit and then limped it off the freeway and had by son-in-law come pick my wife and I up. I went back later with some coolant, filled it up and drove it to the shop and dropped it. The call I got was a leaking water pump so I had them replace that along with the thermostat. I know that theoretically, replacing the belt would not cause the water pump to go bad because you can't over tighten the belt because the tensioner is spring loaded but either way, it does have 188K on the ticker so I am not worried about it.
In the last 10K miles I have had a lot of work done to it and I know it has needed it and has been a great truck. I am anxious to road trip it now and see what happens. I will be ordering a new one when I get back from Powell in two weeks. Its time.
When I got it back, I drove it around but not far and then Sunday I had to go to my nephew's mission farewell in West Point and on the way back home it overheated. I pulled over, let it cool for a bit and then limped it off the freeway and had by son-in-law come pick my wife and I up. I went back later with some coolant, filled it up and drove it to the shop and dropped it. The call I got was a leaking water pump so I had them replace that along with the thermostat. I know that theoretically, replacing the belt would not cause the water pump to go bad because you can't over tighten the belt because the tensioner is spring loaded but either way, it does have 188K on the ticker so I am not worried about it.
In the last 10K miles I have had a lot of work done to it and I know it has needed it and has been a great truck. I am anxious to road trip it now and see what happens. I will be ordering a new one when I get back from Powell in two weeks. Its time.
haulinshine
Active Member
That's creepy. RME does't employ any tracking code, we purposely don't use analytics or anything google, or big tech because of that crap.
Tonkaman
Well-Known Member
- Location
- West Jordan
My dad limped his f-150 home from lake Powell while towing a boat. It was late and he knew that the closer to home he got the better off he would be for service or a tow. 12 hours later he made it back to salt lake.
It ended up being a bad spark plug 🤦♂️
It ended up being a bad spark plug 🤦♂️
Do you ever feel like you're the only one having car problems and you just need to unload what you have and buy something different? I do, and this thread has helped me feel better about my LX470. (It vapor locks when it gets hot outside...) Thanks team.
haulinshine
Active Member
I follow that channel on youtube, it was an interesting coincidence that it happened to show up today
johngottfredson
Threat Level Midnight
- Location
- Alpine
It popped up in mine as well, I also thought the internet spy bots were hard at work.
johngottfredson
Threat Level Midnight
- Location
- Alpine
Last edited:
- Location
- Bountiful, land of rocks
My son bought a 2011 5.0 F150. I like it A LOT. We have the EcoBoost in the 2015 Navigator. The 3.5 is impressive in some ways and kind of “meh” in others. I think it has 60k on it now? For higher mileage, say above 100k, I’d likely lean to the V8 to buy vs the EcoBoost
- Location
- The Land Northward (Bountiful), Utah
That one hit my youtube feed too.
UNSTUCK
But stuck more often.
Well I must say I’ve never been too impressed with the EB. But I can be won over. Our Alaska boondocking rig was a massive Ford transit 15 passenger van with the raised roof and dually rear end. And the EB. With 11 people in it and around 500 pounds of gear it flat out moved! I was super impressed with it. A little slow off the line put you could really feel the power kick in as the turbos wound up. It was a rental so of course we put in cheap fuel. It didn’t care. We ran it it hard and long at just over 1500 miles in 8 days. We averaged 11.8mpg. I can’t complain at all, we’ll except for the rental price for the week…..
rholbrook
Well-Known Member
- Location
- Kaysville, Ut
Its done, I just ordered a new EB but I got the Max Tow option which addresses the overheating issues. They told me 10 weeks. I also just got the build date on my Bronco, the week of Aug 9th.
rholbrook
Well-Known Member
- Location
- Kaysville, Ut
Technically, I ordered the Bronco a while ago.Congratulations!
Funny how you went from no new truck in 10 years to 2 in a day
I love the concept of the ecoboost but I am pretty sour on them. Last winter we did the ALCAN 5000 rally through Canada and Alaska as film crew. We got an ecoboost expedition and it had cam phaser failure at ~30,000 miles roughly 500 miles out in the middle of frozen nowhere. It was a complete debacle with the rental company but long story short, I have a hard time believing they can be durable. A friend of mine runs an excavation company and they are having ecoboost motors fail left and right and are switching their fleet to Ram. Ohh I almost forgot we had issues with a ranger on that run as well. Again, I love the concept but it needs some more engineering work before I can trust it.