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Extreme Scrambler Makeover

Bart

Bart

Registered User
Location
Arm Utah
DaveB said:
I have some power steering lines from assorted rigs, how long does it need to be and what size of fittings ? I'm off work today and Saturday so I could drop one by and even help out if you could use another set of hands. I also have some of the brake line clips and body mounts if you still need some.
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Where can someone buy those line clips and body mounts?
 
Maverick

Maverick

old-school
Location
Anywhere, thanks to my geeky droid
DaveB said:
I have some power steering lines from assorted rigs, how long does it need to be and what size of fittings ? I'm off work today and Saturday so I could drop one by and even help out if you could use another set of hands. I also have some of the brake line clips and body mounts if you still need some.
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That would be great. The steering box is off a YJ, and the part I need is the metal return line that comes out of the box. It has that funky o-ring on the tip that goes into the box.

Body mounts, yes!!! I need the bottom parts and the bolts and washers. I'm sure I bought some at one time last February, but they are long gone.
 
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DaveB

DaveB

Long Jeep Fan
Location
Holladay, Utah
Maverick said:
That would be great. The steering box is off a YJ, and the part I need is the metal return line that comes out of the box. It has that funky o-ring on the tip that goes into the box.

Body mounts, yes!!! I need the bottom parts and the bolts and washers. I'm sure I bought some at one time last February, but they are long gone.
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I have a mixture of cj and tj body mounts. I have the power steering lines from some xjs which I think have the same ends as a yj lines.
 
I Lean

I Lean

Mbryson's hairdresser
Vendor
Location
Utah
Keep in mind, if you run into issues with body mount parts, I have a complete body mount set for CJ's, runs somewhere around $70. That's everything but bolts--so if you can't come up with what you need from Dave's parts I can get you covered. :)
 
Maverick

Maverick

old-school
Location
Anywhere, thanks to my geeky droid
DaveB said:
I have a mixture of cj and tj body mounts. I have the power steering lines from some xjs which I think have the same ends as a yj lines.
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Yeeehaaawww DaveB came by in the middle of the surprise part of Ian's surprise birthday party with a box full of bodymounts and the EXACT PS line that I needed. Thanks!!!!

Russ brought the front spring mount pieces that he cut out, and he and Ian welded them up. Looks awesome!!! Ian took some pics today after burning the last weld, and I have to say, he can lay down a mean bead!

We pulled the cage out and set it on the ground to make the welding easier. Ian finished welding up the cage this morning, and again did a NICE job.

Rob Shelley and Dan Bergman also gave a huge hand over the weekend.

Last night I hooked up the battery so that I could find a good spot to power the fuel pump...and nothing. No power, nada. Started troubleshooting last night, and did a little more today. Chased power to the engine side of the fuse block to a tab that doesn't even get used, and a large flat tab corrosponding to a light brown wire inside the cab (that doesn't go anywhere)

This morning I tore the dash apart, pulled the fuseblock apart to determine what wires are supposed to be hot. I can't find the wiring diagram that I had last spring ('89 burb 454) so I've been online looking for the last hour (I keep getting these gutless search pages). I also tore it all the way down to the ignition switch mounted under the dash on the column, including disassembly, to figure out what wires get power in the different switch positions. The switch is fed by a large red wire.

It looks like the main hot wire (solid red) on the inside of the firewall isn't getting juice from the engine side (large pink wire?). We started chasing that wire back but ran out of time. I'll chase it some more, but ultimately may just run a hot to that point on the fuse block. What I don't know is how the 'puter gets power, but I'll cross that bridge when I get to it.

Brett

mbryson sent me the link for the '87 wiring diagram at Autozone...silly me, I was looking for the '89. I also snagged a wiring diagram for the scrambler off the CJ-8 email list. A little of this and a little of that, and this thing oughta run.
 
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Maverick

Maverick

old-school
Location
Anywhere, thanks to my geeky droid
Bart said:
Amen to that brutha. 2 or 3 ratchet straps to pinch the legs together will come in handy also. You might want to plan on rattle canning it or at least the bottom part while it's propped up.
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Good idea!!! Had straps, pinched cage, made lifting cage MUCH easier.

BCGPER said:
Don't under estimate how hard that cage is going to be to lift out of there, you're going to need a few bodies (as we found out the hard way).
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Another good idea!!! Had bodies, lifted cage, made life MUCH easier.

Note: I wish all heavy things had a nice handy bar that was nicely situated just like a barbell in a squat rack. And balanced, to boot! That made it very nice.
 
Maverick

Maverick

old-school
Location
Anywhere, thanks to my geeky droid
More progress... Holy living electrical pizzaria!

While Ian sprayed loads of black paint on his hands, and got a little on his trailer, my cage and my bumper, Russ fabbed some mean relay, fuse block and toggle switch mounts and figured how to mount the oil cooler.

Meanwhile, yesterday and today Abby (Ian's daughter), Dan and I went through EVERY wire under the hood and under the dash to figure out what was needed and what wasn't, and then what had to match up with what.

So...nothing from the GM harness matched the CJ harness....and nothing from the CJ harness matched the crappy new light and horn harness. Lesson learned: if you are going to buy a new harness, buy a NEW harness, not "an almost new harness that has been used only once." However, I still would have needed to buy a CJ harness ready to mate to an '89 TBI 454.

So far:

  1. CJ blank goes to GM Red Alt hot (not sure if I'll put anything here)
  2. CJ blank goes to GM brown ???
  3. CJ ??? goes to GM tan/white common to oil psi switch & fuel pump relay (no idea what this needs...this wire supposedly eventually powers the fuel pump, but I'm not sure why it goes to the fuse block)
  4. CJ hot goes to GM Pink/black alternator clip (will do)
  5. CJ ??? goes to GM Orange via a 10A "ECM B" fuse. This is a fuse I need to put in. I assume this powers the ECM and would power the fuel pump.
  6. CJ #13 Red/wh start/run goes to GM pink coil (done)
  7. CJ #14 lt blue start goes to GM purple starter (done)
  8. CJ #12 Red hot fed by GM red batt (done)
  9. CJ ??? GM purple/white ????
  10. CJ blank GM purple wiper (not used)
  11. CJ blank GM black/blue wiper (not used)
  12. CJ #1 purple/tr fed by GM green temp (done)
  13. CJ #78 big brown "run" connects to by GM brown alternator indicator (done)
  14. CJ #7 purple fed by GM tan oil pressure (done)
  15. CJ blank GM wiper (not used)
  16. CJ blank GM wiper (not used)
  17. CJ ???? GM pink/black hot run/start 10A "ECM1" fuse. I used the back up light fuse position since Russ is putting in a relay for a backup light (done)
I started looking up ECM B and ECM 1 online to see how to wire...but I got tired and fell asleep. I'll look tomorrow.

We got all the lights wired up too, making the CJ side match the crappy new harness. Dunno which wires are supposed to be the high beams and which are the low beams....anyone? On the headlight, there are three tabs. Left, top, right. Left is ground, dunno which of the other two are high and low. The other wires in the crappy new harness are labeled...but not these.



Good times.

Brett
 
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Maverick

Maverick

old-school
Location
Anywhere, thanks to my geeky droid
More random thoughts...

In the harness plug that comes to the fuse block I seem to have 2 pink/black wires, one orange (splits to two at the ecm) and one tan/white.

I have copies of wiring diagrams from haynes and chilton...and they both leave a lot to be desired.
  1. One of the pink/black in the harness goes to the alt, and will be HOT.
  2. The other pink/black appears that it needs to be powered from a 10A "ECM 1" fuse that is hot in run/start.
  3. The orange appears also to be powered from a 10A "ECM B" fuse in run/start whoa...looking at a different wiring diagram shows this is always HOT (frantically scribbling on greasy garage notes).
  4. Tan/white...does this just go to the fuel pump? Why is it in the harness plug?
  5. I cannot locate in the harness the pink/black that goes to the 20amp fuse
  6. There is a purple/white wire in the harness, but I have not confirmed that this is the one that goes to the ECM with the 3A inline fuse.
I'll try the tan/white to the pump...but I was just going to run my own wire to the pump from a relay triggered by run/start. I may just run the ECM fuses the same way.

Of note, I read in another thread that the oil pressure relay is actually to KEEP the fuel pump running if the fuel relay goes belly up...which is a lot more consistent with the wiring diagram. I kept looking at it thinking "but it still gets power..." trying to imagine the "no oil pressure" scenario. It just isn't set up to cut power, rather, it provides redundant power.

Thanks,
Brett
 
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Maverick

Maverick

old-school
Location
Anywhere, thanks to my geeky droid
Waaahoooo!

I buttoned up the re-wired fuse block Monday afternoon. There's still some other wires to finish under the hood, and I need to put the dash back together, but the loom is more or less done.

I need to make a couple labels for the fuse panel "ECM B" and "ECM 1", both 10A circuits.

The Orange ECMB (powers the computer) will be fed by the always-hot CJ underhood lamp fuse, and the ECM 1 (powers the computer and fuel injectors) will be fed by the start/run CJ seat belt buzzer circuit.

The "start only" purple/white that goes to the C9 on the 'puter will be fed by an unused start only spot on the ignition switch, through an inline fuse...though right after I installed the fuse I found a sweet unused spot on the fuse panel where I will put that 3A fuse and make it all look factory.

I also added 4 pins to the light side of the loom under the hood. The heater fan, windshield washer pump, tach and back up light wires now have a home. The backup lights will have a relay on the fender (Russ' Relays) but the wire is already running to the back of the jeep in the wiring harness. Hmmmm, I may want to rethink that since we are wiring the back up lights a different way than the factory CJ.

Anyway...it's a LOT closer than it was last week.
  1. GM Red Alt hot looped to #4 GM pink/blk (done)
  2. GM brown left blank
  3. GM tan/white common to oil psi switch & fuel pump relay, this will feed a spot in the fuse panel which the fuel pump will plug into.
  4. GM Pink/black alternator clip looped to #1 Hot (done)
  5. CJ dome/ctsy fuse goes to GM Orange via a 10A "ECM B" fuse (done)
  6. CJ #13 Red/wh start/run goes to GM pink coil (done)
  7. CJ #14 lt blue start goes to GM purple starter (done)
  8. CJ #12 Red hot fed by GM red batt (done)
  9. CJ "start" from ign switch to GM purple/white which is C9 on the 'puter
  10. CJ blank GM purple wiper (not used)
  11. CJ blank GM black/blue wiper (not used)
  12. CJ #1 purple/tr fed by GM green temp (done)
  13. CJ #78 big brown "run" connects to by GM brown alternator indicator (done)
  14. CJ #7 purple fed by GM tan oil pressure (done)
  15. CJ blank GM wiper (not used)
  16. CJ blank GM wiper (not used)
  17. GM pink/black hot run/start 10A "ECM1" fuse. I used the back up light fuse position since Russ is putting in a relay for a backup light (done)
I put my EZ list making hat on last night and updated my list for the green...I'm sure I've left a couple things out, but this gets most of it.


Here's a list of stuff I need:

  1. New headlight switch
  2. connectors for tail lights
  3. body mount bolts
  4. seat bolts
  5. backup switch
  6. temp sensor (didn't I get one of these?)
  7. O2 sensor
  8. Headlights
  9. radiator cap
  10. seat belts
  11. seat brackets
  12. amp
  13. front speakers
  14. Reimburse Russ for electrical items
To be done:

  1. Redo 3A fuse in fuse panel
  2. Finish drill 1/2" holes in bumper
  3. rough mount bumper, tach body tabs
  4. weld body tabs on rear bumper
  5. investigate leaking thermostat housing and weird white foam
  6. Fill clutch fluid
  7. gap and install plugs
  8. correct the plug wire order
  9. install rear bumper
  10. install winch
  11. loose mount body mounts
  12. Route wires to backup
  13. Route wires to tach
  14. Remount computer
  15. Remount dash
  16. bump starter
  17. Relays
  18. Finish tail lights
  19. Finish fuel pump wiring
  20. Run tank gauge
  21. refill clutch master cylinder swear buy yet another all new set of components, swear some more, scream, yell, jump up and down
  22. Start jeep
  23. Remount dash
  24. install cage
  25. tighten body mounts
  26. install rear seat brackets
  27. install seats
  28. install seat belts
  29. rough mount subwoofer
  30. get exhaust installed
  31. get inspection
  32. install console/amp/tunes/speakers
  33. install top
  34. refill brand new clutch master cyl again...
I sure wish Ian would send me some pics so I could post them...
 
DaveB

DaveB

Long Jeep Fan
Location
Holladay, Utah
[QUOTE=Maverick;Waaahoooo!

Here's a list of stuff I need:

New headlight switch ----- I have the main light switch and the floor mounted dimmer switch
body mount bolts -----I have a bunch of bolts
seat bolts
backup switch -----I may have one of these from my old chevy
Headlights -----I have plenty of these
radiator cap -----I have some of these also

Let me know if you want them
 
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Maverick

Maverick

old-school
Location
Anywhere, thanks to my geeky droid
DaveB said:
Maverick;Waaahoooo! Here's a list of stuff I need: New headlight switch ----- I have the main light switch and the floor mounted dimmer switch body mount bolts -----I have a bunch of bolts seat bolts backup switch -----I may have one of these from my old chevy Headlights -----I have plenty of these radiator cap -----I have some of these also Let me know if you want them[/QUOTE said:
Rock on! Will the backup switch fit the 465 tranny?

The radiator is a handy Mepco 4 core...
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Click to expand...
 
Maverick

Maverick

old-school
Location
Anywhere, thanks to my geeky droid
Good progress today, though now I'm where I thought I'd be 2 weeks ago before I discovered just how much TLC the wiring needed. I wrapped up the under dash stuff and double checked all the wires going to the gauges. I pulled a Russ and converted the CJ "4WD" lamp to the Check Engine Light.

Russ welded the final pieces on the front of the frame, tying it into the bottom of the bumper, making it all look finished. He discovered that I had been smoking crack when I drilled the winch mounts and showed me the error of my ways. (I redrilled them later). Then he ground it smooth and covered it with rattle can. Then he mounted the relays and terminal block and started laying out all the wires and making connections. It's totally cool!

Matt and Noah got dropped off and Matt started cleaning up the rough spots on the cage with the wire wheel while Noah rode bikes with Ian's kids (after throwing a fit about having to wear socks). Matt also started pulling the old plugs (tough job for an 11yo) and moved on to drilling out the holes in the rear bumper to the final size. Once it is cleaned and painted, it will be ready to mount.

When I felt confident that everything was done under the dash, I started remounting everything. I did a check when I got the ignition switch mounted to make sure each position worked...and it didn't...not only that, but the little rod kept disengaging from the key switch rod.

I sure was happy to take the steering column apart. Luckily Ian's toolbox was holding a steering wheel puller just for me. I tore down the column and found the offending piece to be a little bent, allowing too much play in the rod. Some surgical tapping with the BFH and the piece was as good as new. I reassembled the column and it was nice and tight...but the turn signal switch was cracked in half and the steering wheel is toast, so I'll add those two items to the shopping list.

After I finished redrilling the winch mount holes, I bolted the winch on the winch mount and hooked up the neg cable. I set the assembly up in place and ran the neg cable. Then I started putting the relay box in different places to figure out where to mount it. I think it will go in roughly the same place as on the Freak, mounted to the grill above the winch.

To be done:
  1. Redo 3A fuse in fuse panel - DONE
  2. Finish drill 1/2" holes in bumper - DONE
  3. rough mount bumper, tach body tabs
  4. weld body tabs on rear bumper
  5. investigate leaking thermostat housing and weird white foam
  6. Fill clutch fluid
  7. gap and install plugs - PARTIAL
  8. correct the plug wire order - PARTIAL
  9. install rear bumper
  10. install winch - PARTIAL
  11. loose mount body mounts
  12. Route wires to backup switch - PARTIAL
  13. Route wires to tach - PARTIAL
  14. Remount computer - PARTIAL, need sticky foam stuff
  15. Remount dash - PARTIAL (loose mount, need to redo computer)
  16. bump starter - DONE...it turned over nicely
  17. Relays - PARTIAL (lookin' sweet)
  18. Finish tail lights
  19. Finish fuel pump wiring - DONE
  20. Run tank gauge - DONE
  21. refill clutch master cylinder swear buy yet another all new set of components, swear some more, scream, yell, jump up and down
  22. Start jeep
  23. install cage
  24. tighten body mounts
  25. install rear seat brackets
  26. install seats
  27. install seat belts
  28. rough mount subwoofer
  29. get exhaust installed
  30. get inspection
  31. install console/amp/tunes/speakers
  32. install top
  33. refill brand new clutch master cyl again...
 
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