General Dirt Bike Questions

[Caleb]

question:

Does a voltage regulator body need to be grounded?

Here's my voltage regulator:

View attachment 81970

It's plugged in and mounted to the airbox (plastic). Does the body of the regulator need to be grounded to the frame?

I only know enough about electrical to be dangerous but on my bikes, it's always been mounted to a powder coated frame. So if there's any grounding, it's only through the bolts mounting it on.

 

[Cascadia]

Since I bought this bike new and I know there are no known issues or band aids I'd like to keep up on maintenance. What do I need to do and when?

Oil and Filter?
Clutch hydraulic fluid?
Sprockets?
Chain?
Air filter clean or replace?

What other things are there I don't know about that I should do?

 

[jentzschman]

(not that I have a ton of experience, but here is what I think)

Since it's new, I would not worry about anything until you have a few rides in. However, check the air filter to make sure it is clean. I can usually get two rides in before mine needs a cleaning.

Oil and filter should be good for several rides as I understand with 4t. Still, can't hurt to change it after the first few rides or so since it will be "breaking in".

Sprockets should last several seasons, I would think. Just keep it the chain clean and lubed. I usually clean and lube mine every few rides.

Clutch fluid should not need to be changed for awhile, maybe once a year just before riding season to be safe.

I plan on doing my brake fluids at the start of each riding season. It never hurts to keep clean, fresh fluids in.

 

[Caleb]

Since I bought this bike new and I know there are no known issues or band aids I'd like to keep up on maintenance. What do I need to do and when?

Oil and Filter?
Clutch hydraulic fluid?
Sprockets?
Chain?
Air filter clean or replace?

What other things are there I don't know about that I should do?

Best advice...read your manual. All of that is in there. I personally replace my air filters every two-three rides (depends on how dusty it was on the ride), I don't waste my time washing them when a new pre-oiled No Toil is about $13. Keep your chain lubed (I lube mine after just about every ride and definitely after every time I wash it, which is usually after every ride) and it will last you atleast a full season. If you decide to gear it down at all, be sure to replace your chain with your sprockets...they're more or less a set, ask Stratton what happens when you don't. If anything, be a little aggressive on changing the oil. Keeping fresh oil in it will give you the longest life, especially at first while it's going through it's break-in. Again, all the intervals and how to inspect wear items are all in your manual.

 

[Cascadia]

Thanks. Ill read through that today for my Sunday reading.

How exactly do I grease or oil the chain?

 

[Caleb]

How exactly do I grease or oil the chain?

Buy some chain lube (any shop will have it) and spray it on. Easiest if you have a m/c stand is to put it on that, start it up, pop it in to first gear and let the chain spin. As it's spinning, spray it on. But can easy be done without a stand or even without turning it on, you can just spray it on the length of the chain. You have also want to get a chain brush, these make it easy to clean grime off your chain before re-lubing.

 

[Cascadia]

Cool. Thanks for the info. Ill have to get some soon, since I sprayed my bike off last night.

 

[jentzschman]

Just a thought: I would advise against running the bike in gear while cleaning/lubing. I came across a pretty nasty thread on TT if I remember right, of a guy who did that and somehow got his hand caught and tore it up pretty good.

I simply put mine on a stand and turn the wheel by hand. Plus, I like to use a little pressure on the brush to clean the chain.

 

[Greg]

Just a thought: I would advise against running the bike in gear while cleaning/lubing. I came across a pretty nasty thread on TT if I remember right, of a guy who did that and somehow got his hand caught and tore it up pretty good.

I simply put mine on a stand and turn the wheel by hand. Plus, I like to use a little pressure on the brush to clean the chain.

I saw that thread, IIRC it was a sport bike rider and I think he was "cleaning" his chain... he 'de-gloved' 2 fingers, basically removed the skin. Pretty nasty pics.

I usually tip the bike up on the kickstand, spin the rear tire by hand and spray on the lube... a bike lift makes it way easier.

 

[jentzschman]

I think your right Greg about it being a sport bike

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[Caleb]

I don't know, if you're not smart enough to keep your fingers away from a moving chain then maybe it's just darwin at work???

 

[YOUKNOW]

Another item with the chain is to make sure it is properly adjusted after every ride. Every bike is different and you can find the info in your owners manual. The stock chain on my CRF was junk and needed to be replaced after two rides. I've always had good luck with O-ring chains lasting longer, it is a lot nicer to your bank account not having to replace the sprockets and chain more often. I would also say it depends on where you ride as well. If you are doing some trail riding, probably wont be as hard on the chain. If you are out in the dunes with a paddle, check it. I was in a pickle one weekend before I went to Glamis(large sand dune area in So. Cal.) and couldn't find an O-ring chain. I blew through that chain and sprockets in one day. The chain was way stretched and ate through the sprockets. When I had an O-ring, the chain and sprockets lasted much longer.

I would also say the same with the oils, engine and clutch side. If your hard on the engine, replace it more often. And what Caleb said.

 

[jentzschman]

I don't know, if you're not smart enough to keep your fingers away from a moving chain then maybe it's just darwin at work???

LOL

 

[Caleb]

Great points youknow, something else when adjusting the chain is make sure the sprocket is square to the frame. I have a motion pro tool that makes this very simple. I prefer an x-ring chain the most, but have several o-ring chains too. I won't waste my time with a standard chain.

On the KTMs you have shared oil between the tranny and engine oil.

 

[jentzschman]

Great points youknow, something else when adjusting the chain is make sure the sprocket is square to the frame. I have a motion pro tool that makes this very simple. I prefer an x-ring chain the most, but have several o-ring chains too. I won't waste my time with a standard chain.

Why do you prefer x-ring vs o-ring?

What is this tool you speak of?

 

[Caleb]

The benefits of a standard chain is there is far less friction so less drag, this is why most MX racers will use standard chains. The benefit to an x-ring is you get the protection of an o-ring chain, with less friction like a standard chain. They do cost a few dollars more.

 

[jentzschman]

Why do some choose a o-ring over a x-ring chain?

 

[Caleb]

Why do some choose a o-ring over a x-ring chain?

Cost would be the only reason. For a weekend warriors like most of us, an o-ring is more than sufficient. The really is nothing wrong with an o-ring chain.

 

[glockman]

My 450 ate non O ring chains. I lose a little HP with the x-ring but I don't notice it on the 450.
I change the oil on my 450 after two days at the track and every day at the dunes. Modern 4t bikes hold the bare minimum amount of oil and run really hot so it breaks down fast.


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[Greg]

I don't know, if you're not smart enough to keep your fingers away from a moving chain then maybe it's just darwin at work???

Yep! IIRC, the guy was using a rag to wipe the chain clean...while the bike was in gear, running.....? :wtf: