Jeeper's 2006 6.0 F350
- Thread starter jeeper
- Start date
- Location
- The Land Northward (Bountiful), Utah
Wow buddy!
I am holding off on forming my opinions until I get to put some miles on it. My opinion and emotions have been very roller-coaster-ish on it so far. I'd like to give myself some time to get them settled.
sawtooth4x4
Totally Awesome
- Location
- Land of East Laytonshire
Sweet. Hope you deleted the egr
- Location
- Smithfield Utah
Ahh the joys of owning a Ford
J/k hopefully it's sorted and good to go now--looks good!
sawtooth4x4
Totally Awesome
- Location
- Land of East Laytonshire
add a bigger compressor wheel and you will be much happier. Mine has been behaving well since I deleted everything. There definitely is a formula for making the engine good.
EGR Delete
Coolant Filter
Upgrade the Oil Cooler
Update HPOP Fitting
Update the Dummy Plugs
Drive it like you stole it and it'll always work good. That turbo needs to be worked to keep the carbon off it. I do it daily. Drive it daily as well. Let it cool before you turn it off. That way the oil won't get burned up in the turbo and turn to carbon.
EGR Delete
Coolant Filter
Upgrade the Oil Cooler
Update HPOP Fitting
Update the Dummy Plugs
Drive it like you stole it and it'll always work good. That turbo needs to be worked to keep the carbon off it. I do it daily. Drive it daily as well. Let it cool before you turn it off. That way the oil won't get burned up in the turbo and turn to carbon.
boogie_4wheel
Active Member
- Location
- North Salt Lake, Utah
A high idle mod is a great thing to do. Aids in quicker warm up, reduces cylinder washing, reduces carbon buildup on valves and injector tips.
I use the factory high idle on my Dodge all the time when cold. Factory cold intake tuning ramps it up to 1000, but I have control of 1100-1500rpm, and can see the warmer exhaust temperatures as engine speed increases.
An alternate or addition is adding an exhaust brake. Turn it on while idling. Increases back pressure (duh) and places a load on the engine causing it to keep combustion temperatures up.
I use the factory high idle on my Dodge all the time when cold. Factory cold intake tuning ramps it up to 1000, but I have control of 1100-1500rpm, and can see the warmer exhaust temperatures as engine speed increases.
An alternate or addition is adding an exhaust brake. Turn it on while idling. Increases back pressure (duh) and places a load on the engine causing it to keep combustion temperatures up.
My brother runs his exhaust brake in his cummins for this reason as well.
I think my pocket book has taken a major hit, so costly upgrades may have to wait. The high idle is free though, so I'll make it happen.
Tonkaman
Well-Known Member
- Location
- West Jordan
The biggest benefit for high idle is to keep from washing the oil from your cylinders. Of coarse I doubt you ever let it idle long enough for that to be an issue.
sawtooth4x4
Totally Awesome
- Location
- Land of East Laytonshire
Anytime mine sits for more than 5 minutes idling, it automatically goes into high idle mode at 950 RPM. its usually sitting at 500.
To enter high idle mode, put it in park, don't touch anything including the brakes.
I don't know if the dealer did it before I got it or not. But its nice when its cold out.
To enter high idle mode, put it in park, don't touch anything including the brakes.
I don't know if the dealer did it before I got it or not. But its nice when its cold out.
Mine did the same this morning. after a few minutes at idle it ramped itself up a bit. I thought it was a 'get warm' trick by the truck. If that is a high idle mode, I guess I can just leave it.
Tonkaman
Well-Known Member
- Location
- West Jordan
That's a pretty cool feature
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
So did you end up with a full rebuild, a used replacement or something else? I'm curious of the ballpark price to replace a Ford 6.0, if you're willing to share... and you don't have to be too specific on the price. I think there are a lot of others in a similar position and the info would be nice to know!
Happy to share numbers.
Ford and G&R quoted me about $15K-16K for a 'replacement motor'. I believe Ford was going to put in a remaned short block, G&R were going to pick up a used motor.
This guy in Ogden phone quoted me about $6500. That was $3100 for the 'rebuilt' motor and labor.
After getting into the motor we opted for more stuff. All done I was just over $9,200.
'rebuilt' motor (new bearing, rings, ect) Mine also required new valves, push rods, rockers. $3100
New HPOP $500
New injectors $1400
Head stud upgrade $550
Upgraded EGR cooler $319
Oil Cooler $350
That put me at a little more than $6200, plus oil change, fuel filters, Air filters, ($250ish)
The invoice shows $2550 labor.
My math shows I am missing a few hundred.. The final invoice is outside, but this is close enough.
The quotes from Ford and G&R did not include new HPOP, injectors, filters, or head studs, So that would add additional costs to what they would have given me.
My overall experience is 50/50.
It took a long time, but I made the mistake of saying 'not in a hurry' when I dropped it off.. I just didn't realize our 'hurries' were different.
I am not sure which injectors I ended up with. I got a different name/brand each time
I don't feel like I ever got lied to or taken advantage of, but a little bit like maybe he is too busy/scatter brained to know exactly what was going on 100% of the time.
I think I was expected super professional shop appeal (like G&R's nice shop) and ended up with a glorified back yard mechanic with a shop.
However, his invoice is $5k-8K LESS than the fancy shops. The truck is running good. He busted it out pretty quick once I told him I was now in a hurry. He met me after hours for pick-up. Claims it has full warranty on everything he touched. Truck came back without any additional dents or scratches.
I'd probably use him again if I were to do it over.
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
Thanks for the info!! That's more detail than I expected, but it's nice to know!
glockman
I hate Jeep trucks
- Location
- Pleasant Grove
With what you paid for that truck, I think you are in a really good position.
A 6.0 with head studs, new injectors, egr cooler and oil cooler should treat
you well for a good long time. I'd spend $150 for the coolant filter to save $400 and 8 hours labor later with a plugged oil cooler. That and add a scan guage for $150 to monitor coolant vs oil temp and you should be golden for years to come.
I run an SCT Tuner on mine all the time but I take it easy and have commonly gotten 16-18mpg on the highway.
A 6.0 with head studs, new injectors, egr cooler and oil cooler should treat
you well for a good long time. I'd spend $150 for the coolant filter to save $400 and 8 hours labor later with a plugged oil cooler. That and add a scan guage for $150 to monitor coolant vs oil temp and you should be golden for years to come.
I run an SCT Tuner on mine all the time but I take it easy and have commonly gotten 16-18mpg on the highway.
I have got the scan gauge for it. Oil and coolant temps are fairly close in temps anyway.. What exactly are we monitoring for?
Stock coolant temps are 190-200, and stock oil temps are 200-215... So says this chart:
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/974357-recommended-readings-temperature-and-pressure.html
I asked the shop about a coolant filter. He said they always leak and are expensive to change. However after seeing the picture you posted, I would tend to agree that having one is worth while.