General Tech What did you work on Today?

N-Smooth

Smooth Gang Founding Member
Location
UT
Boats are just like vehicles- it’s impossible to find one that works for all intended purposes. I love small bass boats for fishing in tight spots and close to shore etc but they’re sketchy when weather hits. I also want a boat I can take several of my old young men on and troll for big fish or take my whole family on so a pontoon boat works best for that.

Basically what I’m saying is I want at least two fishing boats but currently have none 🤣
 

jeeper

I live my life 1 dumpster at a time
Location
So Jo, Ut
Thats a really cool project. I want a row boat that I can carry 100 yards to the water at Washington Lake. I've looked every year and keep waffling about it but would really enjoy being on the water in something stable with my two boys.

You could make something with better wheels for cheaper, but this would solve your need to carry it..

 

nnnnnate

Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
Location
WVC, UT
The issue is there isn't great access to the shore line at this lake. From the camp ground you have to shimmy between two sites. Its not real far from the street to the lake but its tight. We usually go with family so it wouldn't be hard to find an extra set of hands to help carry but even with that set of helper wheels I wouldn't want something super heavy. Really just a boat shell and some oars is what I want. I'm sure I'd want to add a little electric trolling motor later (no gas engines on the lake) but I enjoy rowing.
 

Gravy

Ant Anstead of Dirtbikes
Supporting Member
I somehow broke the handle off this pile of crap tongue jack.
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So I replaced it with a slightly better pile of crap tongue jack with 2 wheels with hopes it will roll easier.
Let's see if I get another 3-4 years out of it
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ID Bronco

Registered User
Location
Idaho Falls, ID
The issue is there isn't great access to the shore line at this lake. From the camp ground you have to shimmy between two sites. Its not real far from the street to the lake but its tight. We usually go with family so it wouldn't be hard to find an extra set of hands to help carry but even with that set of helper wheels I wouldn't want something super heavy. Really just a boat shell and some oars is what I want. I'm sure I'd want to add a little electric trolling motor later (no gas engines on the lake) but I enjoy rowing.

A flycraft would do what you want most likely. Light, nimble, no motor. Get the 3 seater. It's on my list, but I haven't pulled the trigger yet.
 

Kevin B.

Not often wrong. Never quite right.
Moderator
Location
Stinkwater
Nothing super technical, but I installed one of these:
View attachment 160803

Really looking forward to not having a bed full of leaves this fall, and not having a bed full of snow this winter. I need to add a power lock to the tailgate, and I can start on a roll out toolbox and some other in bed goodies I've had planned for a while.
Don't let Jeeper catch you carrying Tyvek in the cab though...
 

Kevin B.

Not often wrong. Never quite right.
Moderator
Location
Stinkwater
Thats a really cool project. I want a row boat that I can carry 100 yards to the water at Washington Lake. I've looked every year and keep waffling about it but would really enjoy being on the water in something stable with my two boys.
How do you feel about a Scanoe? 17 foot Coleman with an internal frame and an extra wide beam for extra stability and cargo space. I don't need two canoes and I've been thinking about getting rid of it...
 

nnnnnate

Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
Location
WVC, UT
How do you feel about a Scanoe? 17 foot Coleman with an internal frame and an extra wide beam for extra stability and cargo space. I don't need two canoes and I've been thinking about getting rid of it...
Those seem neat but I do really want a row boat. I'm not sure what got me stuck on them but I worked at Camp Frontier when I was 14 and just remember really enjoying rowing around that lake all summer.
 

Gravy

Ant Anstead of Dirtbikes
Supporting Member
Did the neighbor's 5.0 F-150 water pump
3hrs including cleaning the throttle body, losing one of those stupid Ford coolant hose connector clips in the undertray and a run to O'Reilly's for a funky o-ring and some coolant.
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Stupid EGR and crankcase breather recirculation crap...
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I owed him one because he got curious when I was swapping my Liberty transmission, so I had put him to work.
 

UNSTUCK

But stuck more often.
A friend was installing a new oil pick up tube with his new oil pan. Guess he didn’t know his own strength. He just started to pull threads. He asked me to check it out. After raising the engine high enough to clear the cross member than runs under the pan I was able to get it all torn down. Good thing he had me look at it as I don’t think the pick up would have stayed in place for long.

I decided to tap to the next larger size. In this case it went from 6mm to 1/4”.
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Seeing as how the oil pump has a second tapped hole I decided to utilize it. I found this piece of scrap that already had a hole drilled. Perfect.
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Starting to cut it up.
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Getting ready to weld.
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Installed.
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Back together now and closer to being ready to run.
 
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UNSTUCK

But stuck more often.
Harbor Freight almost killed me the other day. 😡

I bought their high lift transmission jack to be used with a vehicle lift. It had all the specs I needed. Got it home and put it together. It has a nice spring return “lower” knob. Turn it to the left and the jack lowers. Let go of it and it automatically returns to close and stops lowering. Very handy and keeps you in control.

I needed to pull a 4l60 and t-case out of a suburban. It had a couple funky cross members. I wanted to pull both at the same time but decided to split them because of how awkward it would be squeezing them through. Doable but hard. I got the jack under the t-case and removed all the nuts. I went to drop the jack a hair to brake the seal between the two. As I let go of the valve knob the whole thing fell apart. The knob goes shooting out of its assembly from the force of the spring. There’s nothing left but a little shaft sticking out. The jack came down and I couldn’t stop it. As it came down all I could do was guide the t-case between the cross members and lift and push and cuss. Fortunately the case was light and not a big deal. I would have been in trouble if the transmission would have been on there as well. I would have had to just stand back and let it come down.

So with it all down and done I checked it out. In theory the knob gets a hole drilled through it and that short shaft then a pin goes through both holding them together. On mine, whoever drilled the hole missed the mark. They hit the very end of the knob creating a notch and not a full hole. Then they drilled through the shaft and back into the knob, missing even worse. This caused the drill bit to brake. They then decided just to leave it and have the broken drill bit piece be the pin. That didn’t last long.

The knob with the poorly drilled holes.
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The off center hole in the shaft.
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The “pin” holding it all together.
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The solution. I tapped the shaft hole to #10 and then cut the ends off to the width of the knob. I then opened up the notches in the knob for full contact on the new shaft.
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Then I drilled and tapped the end of the shaft for a screw that would hold the knob in place and force it into the new pin.
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All put back together with the spring and spring cover in place. Functions the way it should have. I then used it to pull the transmission with no drama.
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I might have to leave a review on Harbor Freights website.
 

moab_cj5

Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
My new to me truck came with a class V hitch. The receiver will take a 2.5" shaft. I don't own any inserts that large and even my new weight distribution hitch is a 2" shaft. I hate the idea of losing my adapter and I really don't want to get in a position where I can't find it and need to tow something. I also don't want to drive around with a hitch lock holding the adapter in place.

My solution was to drill a hole in the bottom of the receiver and then tap it for a set screw. Without paying super close attention, I drilled out a 1/2" hole with a step bit then went to my tap set to find the right tap. My mistake was blindly drilling out the hole without looking at the requirements for each tap. A 1/2" hole is between a 9/16 x 12 and a 9/16 x 18. Being the genius that I am, I thought I could easily find a 9/16 bolt, so I tapped the hole to 9/16 x 12 course and set out to find hardware.

9/16 x 12 is not common... I should've drilled it for a 1/2" bolt as that would've been sufficient, and I didn't want to drill it out larger for a 5/8, so it stayed 9/16.

I finally located a bolt at Cal Ranch (best hardware selection around me by far) and returned home to test it out.

I ran the bolt into the hole and dropped a lock washer on it to check length, then cut it down to about the right size. It was too long for 1 lock washer but too short for 2. I dove into my spare hardware and located a flat washer that seemed to be just about right. I snugged it up, locking the adapter in place and checked to ensure I wasn't adversely affecting the adapter. All my hitches slid in and out easily. I pulled the bolt out and threw some red locktight on then snugged it up tight and rechecked the hitches. It's perfect.

I didn't think to take pics before hand, but here are the pics after.

Insert in semi permanent home.
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The bolt holding it in place.
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I'll keep an eye on it and paint mark it to see if it moves, but this hopefully allows for worry free use of all the hitch accessories I already own.
 
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N-Smooth

Smooth Gang Founding Member
Location
UT
I hate having to use an adapter and if it wasn’t for my Ramboxes I’d for sure forget it or lose it. I like your solution.

Also I left it in the receiver once for days and about had a heart attack when I saw it hanging out a few inches
 
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