General Tech What did you work on Today?

Hickey

Burn-barrel enthusiast
Supporting Member
For the $28 I paid plus shipping ($38) I won't be cutting glass myself nor traveling, nor paying to have it tempered.

We did make template as a secondary option if I couldn't find the glass premade but soon realized it's such a tight fit that just a few mm too large or small in any dimension and I'd have a fit refitting it. It was already hard enough reusing the old offset window seal.

I wouldnt try it myself as I haven't the tools to uniformly heat glass to 1100+°F and quench it correctly. Interesting to know one could have a custom piece tempered though. Might be a good option for SXS or buggy guys who want a glass windshield.
Hollywood has done a great disservice to the general public and their basic knowledge of auto glass. Windshields are never tempered, they are laminated annealed glass. There are two reasons for this: tempering glass often causes small distortions that impact optical clarity, and body retention. Tempered glass won’t stop you from flying through the windshield in an accident.

Modern side and rear auto glass are tempered safety glass, but they were also laminated back in the old days.

In short, an windshield for an buggy or sxs can be made by purchasing stock sizes of laminated sheet glass and cutting it to size. This only works with flat windshields. If you want a curved windshield, it gets FAR more complicated quickly.

You can cut down a curved windshield, but tempered glass cannot be cut. Actually, it can be cut, but you need to anneal the glass first, then retemper it after. I’ve only seen that happen one time. You basically need a glass tempering furnace to anneal tempered glass.

To temper glass, you need to heat it to a high temperature, then cool the outside surface about 500 degrees lower than the inside temp of the glass piece. This is easier with thicker glass than thin glass, because the larger mass of thick glass (1/2” or 3/8” thick) will retain the heat much longer.

The furnace uses ceramic rollers to load the glass into it. There are hundreds of air nozzles inside the furnace that blow air onto the glass after it’s heated. This is how we would cool the exterior surface quickly. With thinner glass, you need a LOT more air to cool it fast enough to reach the 500 degree threshold. We had a massive air tank installed just so we could temper that thinner glass. The air tank was about 10’ diameter and 60’ long. Everyone in the building had to wear hearing protection when we were tempering 1/8” glass because the sound of the air blowing into the glass was incredibly loud.

We had the largest tempering oven west of the Mississippi for a few decades. I think our max was 106”x144”.
 

Gravy

Ant Anstead of Dirtbikes
Supporting Member
Hollywood has done a great disservice to the general public and their basic knowledge of auto glass. Windshields are never tempered, they are laminated annealed glass. There are two reasons for this: tempering glass often causes small distortions that impact optical clarity, and body retention. Tempered glass won’t stop you from flying through the windshield in an accident.

Modern side and rear auto glass are tempered safety glass, but they were also laminated back in the old days.

In short, an windshield for an buggy or sxs can be made by purchasing stock sizes of laminated sheet glass and cutting it to size. This only works with flat windshields. If you want a curved windshield, it gets FAR more complicated quickly.

You can cut down a curved windshield, but tempered glass cannot be cut. Actually, it can be cut, but you need to anneal the glass first, then retemper it after. I’ve only seen that happen one time. You basically need a glass tempering furnace to anneal tempered glass.

To temper glass, you need to heat it to a high temperature, then cool the outside surface about 500 degrees lower than the inside temp of the glass piece. This is easier with thicker glass than thin glass, because the larger mass of thick glass (1/2” or 3/8” thick) will retain the heat much longer.

The furnace uses ceramic rollers to load the glass into it. There are hundreds of air nozzles inside the furnace that blow air onto the glass after it’s heated. This is how we would cool the exterior surface quickly. With thinner glass, you need a LOT more air to cool it fast enough to reach the 500 degree threshold. We had a massive air tank installed just so we could temper that thinner glass. The air tank was about 10’ diameter and 60’ long. Everyone in the building had to wear hearing protection when we were tempering 1/8” glass because the sound of the air blowing into the glass was incredibly loud.

We had the largest tempering oven west of the Mississippi for a few decades. I think our max was 106”x144”.

Yes I know auto glass windshield's are laminated. But I always love to learn more! Sounds like a cool facility!
I never knew flat laminated glass was easy to get hold of nor did I think the common man could cut it with any precision. That's neat to learn.

We actually got to visit an art glass facility with our interior design company when we had a customer wanting to do some custom glass for a home. And they showed us their tempering set up for custom bathroom glass. They told us to temper the glass they had to hit a very specific temperature between 1116°F and 1132°F You could actually see the difference before and after tempering with polarized glasses.

If you recall Mr James Millet from the forum here, he is in outstanding glazier and He's cut me a few custom pieces to fit the windows in my 114-year-old house. I don't know if he does tempering though...
 

JeeperG

Well-Known Member
Location
Riverdale
Dr. Moab helped me rebuild my 231 yesterday, picked up another AX5 from agility recently. Finally got out in my garage yesterday to start putting the old YJ back together.
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Was able to get most of it myself and move her out on her own power today, next month I've had this ole girl for 24 years. Still need to finish some mock up stuff on the flat fenders and I got some new rocker guards coming later this month.
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SLC97SR5

IDIesel
Location
Davis County
My 211k '97 4Runner had developed a slight intermittent buck, mild misfire feeling when going up hill under moderate load. It never set a code or flashed a CEL. I cleaned the MAF, gave it a LOF and swapped the fuel filter. Nothing improved but the other day after coasting downhill and quickly accelerating into traffic it fell on its face and would only regain speed if I feathered the throttle. I think I've got it narrowed down to a failing TPS. The resolution on the ScanGauge II is not great but the DVOM shows some opens during the sweep. I can't imagine how many times the little wipers in the TPS have gone back and forth.
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SLC97SR5

IDIesel
Location
Davis County
The RZR 570 popped a 168 fault code and the cluster went dark and we lost power steering. Looks like the voltage regulator called it quits and fortunately the little Polaris cuts power to the accessories when voltage gets above 16VDC. A new VR and she's back at it. The battery was not loving all the volts and it let off a little steam.
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anderson750

I'm working on it Rose
Location
Price, Utah
The RZR 570 popped a 168 fault code and the cluster went dark and we lost power steering. Looks like the voltage regulator called it quits and fortunately the little Polaris cuts power to the accessories when voltage gets above 16VDC. A new VR and she's back at it. The battery was not loving all the volts and it let off a little steam.
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@jeeper is a pro with Polaris VR’s. He loves them
 

SLC97SR5

IDIesel
Location
Davis County
@jeeper is a pro with Polaris VR’s. He loves them
Tell me more...the oem Polaris unit appears Chinese and was $249. I took a chance and bought 2 of these for $80.
They both worked out of the box so one got installed and the other went in the glove box. I didn't find much online regarding the 570 VR's.
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Also, the upside down, angled mounting behind the rad with torx fasteners is neat.
 

jeeper

I live my life 1 dumpster at a time
Location
So Jo, Ut
Tell me more...the oem Polaris unit appears Chinese and was $249. I took a chance and bought 2 of these for $80.
They both worked out of the box so one got installed and the other went in the glove box. I didn't find much online regarding the 570 VR's.
View attachment 162582

Also, the upside down, angled mounting behind the rad with torx fasteners is neat.

Ours is on a 2012, which I think is a version earlier than yours. Our has pig tail wiring coming out of it, with the plugs at the ends of the wires.
I think the rzr was running the original vr when we bought it, but it died shortly after. I thought maybe I had washed it wrong or something.
I bought one out of RMATV, it only lasted a hundred miles or so. Bought 2 of the Amazon units, both lasted about the same. I just lost another last weekend.
A few reviews online are people saying they buy multiples because they go through them so quick. That can't seem like a logical solution to me. There has to be something else causing the issues. But I don't know what it is. I had one of them melt the wires at the connection plug which sucked.

I just bought one from This Place. They claim to have solved the issues. I haven't installed it yet though.
 

SoopaHick

Certified Weld Judger
Moderator
Today I did a small jaunt expiring dirt roads I've never been on in Five Mile pass to let the dog run. She's all wound up with family in town and needs to get out.
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And then came home to check off a few things.

Finally got rid of the broken rain visors on the truck windows. This was much more of a project than I was expecting.
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And then spent a little time making some progress towards the hi-line on the TJ. Got the hood cut roughly to where it needs to be.
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JeeperG

Well-Known Member
Location
Riverdale
Finally I think we are actually about ready for base coat. Made a mount for those front fenders, set everything up in the direction it'll sit on the truck. Probably do a bit more shop cleaning, wipe the panels. We'll wait till early Friday to begin, hopefully all goes well.
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