- Location
- SPANISH FORK, UTAH
Looking good Steve. Glad to see you hard at work.
'97 tacoma build: Abner
- Thread starter sixstringsteve
- Start date
-
- Tags
- abner build build thread tacoma toyota
sixstringsteve
Well-Known Member
- Location
- UT
You too. You are getting twice as much done each day as I am. As long as we're done by the trip, that's all that matters. I have a shakedown run set for the weekend before hitr, hopefully you can test your stuff out before hole in the rock.
sixstringsteve
Well-Known Member
- Location
- UT
I would REALLY love a flippac, but it's impossible to find one used in this area. If you guys could put your feelers out for a used flippac for a ranger or tacoma, or toyota pickup, hit me up, especeially if it's in state.
glockman
I hate Jeep trucks
- Location
- Pleasant Grove
Looking good Steve. I have owned a lot of vehicles but you are catching up fast. Plus mine are all close to stock. I don't know how you build so fast. As for the fenders, you might be able to bend a thin piece of 1" strap and weld it to the inside of the fender and the floor.
sixstringsteve
Well-Known Member
- Location
- UT
Tonight was a frustrating night. The goal was to get my diffs pulled so I could run them over to Carl tomorrow for him to install my gears. Needless to say, after 5 hours working on just the front, it's still not out.
Removing the CV's would be a quick 10 min job if it weren't for the stupid cone washers in the hubs. To this day I still haven't found a good way to get them out. I've tried pounding the stud straight on, shoving a screwdriver in the slit of the cone washer, pounding on it with a chisel, pb blaster, nothing seems to work. once those were out, getting the CVs out was a piece of cake.
The skid plate took me 45 min to remove. 4 bolts (one stripped), a bent tow hook wedging it on. One of the recessed bolts in there was totally stripped and the only way to get the skid off was to use a sawzall to cut off the mounts.
At midnight I realized that for some odd reason Toyota decided to use a huge allen head bolt in both the diff drain, and the diff mount to the front crossmember. I don't have an allen big enough, so I decided to call it a night and knock it out tomorrow night. Hopefully Carl still has time to install my gears for me before this weekend.
Removing the CV's would be a quick 10 min job if it weren't for the stupid cone washers in the hubs. To this day I still haven't found a good way to get them out. I've tried pounding the stud straight on, shoving a screwdriver in the slit of the cone washer, pounding on it with a chisel, pb blaster, nothing seems to work. once those were out, getting the CVs out was a piece of cake.
The skid plate took me 45 min to remove. 4 bolts (one stripped), a bent tow hook wedging it on. One of the recessed bolts in there was totally stripped and the only way to get the skid off was to use a sawzall to cut off the mounts.
At midnight I realized that for some odd reason Toyota decided to use a huge allen head bolt in both the diff drain, and the diff mount to the front crossmember. I don't have an allen big enough, so I decided to call it a night and knock it out tomorrow night. Hopefully Carl still has time to install my gears for me before this weekend.
- Location
- SPANISH FORK, UTAH
No fun Steve. I ended up getting a call from my dad and replaced the driver side of his front end from the knuckle out. The kicker is he had the tires rotated Friday and asked them to check it out because he had a noise and they said everything was good. The outer bearing was welded to the spindle and I had to beat the hub off with an air hammer.
Needless to say my rig sat and no progress.
Good luck tomorrow night.
Needless to say my rig sat and no progress.
Good luck tomorrow night.
sixstringsteve
Well-Known Member
- Location
- UT
nice! And that's why I do my own maintenance. Nothing like paying someone else to not fix your rig.
Hopefully I can get my diff to Carl tonight. I'm close, so it shouldn't be an issue.
Hopefully I can get my diff to Carl tonight. I'm close, so it shouldn't be an issue.
One trick I saw someone do for the cone washers, a guy had welded a piece of metal to the end of a slide hammer and drilled holes in it to match the toyota hub. Few smacks and all the cones were out. Worked really well, I guess if you take hubs apart often enough it would be a relatively inexpensive/easy tool to fab up.
- Location
- The Land Northward (Bountiful), Utah
the old chero-car trick to keeping mud and crap off the hinges is to slice a pool noodle and shove it inside the inner fender and seal it with silicone... worked pretty good on my last two.
you should ask Robbie what his trick is with the cone washers, I can't remember it... but I know he's got it down pat: I watched him change 3 CV's in one weekend in Delta running 35's hahaha
Luckily you're leaving that front end open.
Running 35's locked on a stock IFS yota front is like double "D" batteries in your boom-box: it'll last a while... until you turn the volume up!
you should ask Robbie what his trick is with the cone washers, I can't remember it... but I know he's got it down pat: I watched him change 3 CV's in one weekend in Delta running 35's hahaha
Luckily you're leaving that front end open.
Running 35's locked on a stock IFS yota front is like double "D" batteries in your boom-box: it'll last a while... until you turn the volume up!
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sixstringsteve
Well-Known Member
- Location
- UT
you sir are a genius. Thank you!
sixstringsteve
Well-Known Member
- Location
- UT
I'm having a hard time envisioning this. Did the tool whack the cones, or the hub body behind the cones? I seem to do enough of these that it makes sense to build the tool.
You bolted the tool to the hub, and would slam the slide hammer away from the truck, it jostled the cones loose and out after just a couple hits.
sixstringsteve
Well-Known Member
- Location
- UT
ah, that makes sense. So it bolts on where the hub dial bolts on. I'm going to have to make one of those, thanks.
rholbrook
Well-Known Member
- Location
- Kaysville, Ut
Having worked in a body shop in a previous life prepping cars for paint, I hated to find anything that kept moisture in dark places. It meant I would find rust. Siliconing a pool noodle sounds like one of those things I would hate to find. It really shouldnt matter because Abner will be gone next month anyway.
sixstringsteve
Well-Known Member
- Location
- UT
that makes perfect sense. Maybe I can talk Carl into cutting me one out on his plasma.
Bring me a hub dial along with your diffs, so I can get the bolt pattern off of it.
sixstringsteve
Well-Known Member
- Location
- UT
You got it.
- Location
- Sandy, Ut
Make me one Carl
Fwiw I use a brass drift on directly on the end of the studs with light taps from a brass tipped hammer on the edge of the hub body. Even on 40+ year old stubborn LC axles they pop out easy enough. That said if this tool makes it so you do less damage to the stud and don't have to mar up the hub at all, I'd love to give it a try.
Fwiw I use a brass drift on directly on the end of the studs with light taps from a brass tipped hammer on the edge of the hub body. Even on 40+ year old stubborn LC axles they pop out easy enough. That said if this tool makes it so you do less damage to the stud and don't have to mar up the hub at all, I'd love to give it a try.