Anyone into 3D printing?

[frieed]

I think @frieed is running Klipper on a Raspberry Pi?

- DAA

If I understand correctly, Klipper is running on the BTT_Octopus controller board and Mainsail is running on the RPi to provide the web GUI to run it. My printer can be driven via WiFi due to the capabilities of the RPi, but I prefer a wired Gb ethernet connection. I've seen some of my g-code files exceed 1 Gbyte when I have lot's of replicated parts in the build and the wired connection is just so fast..

.....

the new Ender 3 V3 KE is boasting speeds of 500 mm/s. I struggle to see how the quality would hold up at those speeds....the printer would look like it just did some of the FS of FL's bath salts or something.

...

I currently have mine set to 300 mm/s and 3000 mm/s/s acceleration with zero issues.
Perhaps I'll dial that up to 500 and 5000 and try to get input shaping running.

.. I think that means I’ll likely be using ABS or ASA?

I assume the listed bed size is not actual printing space right? How close to the edge of the bed can these print? I can’t imagine any big projects, but I’d sure hate to feel like I should have gone bigger.

Is there a downside to bigger printers besides cost? Are they harder to keep warm due to volume or is that not really an issue?

From what I've read, ABS and ASA tend to be more UV and heat resistant. That said, if the part is easily replaced, give PLA a try.

Generally, printers are spec'd by print volume. Mine is 350mmx350mmx350mm. You can print right to the edge of the plate but since you typically stick a flexible steel plate down onto a magnetic base plate, the exact location of the edges tends to wander a bit, say a few mm.

Bigger printers could have looser tolerances if the frame materials weren't scaled up as well.
High end printers may include a separate chamber heater.

 

[Herzog]

My drawer has so much extra space now! Time for more wrenches!

 

[frieed]

.stl file please

 

[Herzog]

.stl file please

I used this:

modular wrench holder by broncosis

Updated all files for screw drivers and two different tolerance sizes Updated the files after scaling them a few times here is the fusion link if you want to see my sourcehttps://a360.co/3rqHTo3 ... I can't find a wrench organizer to hold all of my wrenches the way I want them in my tool box...

www.thingiverse.com

 

[mbryson]

@ebryson has a pretty cool wrench setup he printed for me

 

[ebryson]

@ebryson has a pretty cool wrench setup he printed for me

You mean these? Designed it myself. I'll need to get home to attach the .stl file if desired. These are normal sized wrenchs, I created a large wrench design too.

 

[frieed]

I forgot to add... I'm using Orca Slicer and it has a bunch of really useful printer tuning models. maybe other slicers do as well.

 

[N-Smooth]

I hate you guys. I want the tool organizers so bad but need to spend time on a new hobby (3d printing) like I need 100 holes in my head.

 

[mbryson]

I hate you guys. I want the tool organizers so bad but need to spend time on a new hobby (3d printing) like I need 100 holes in my head.

Make @ebryson print you some stuff. Worked for me

 

[frieed]

I encountered an interesting problem... I've tuned the dimensional accuracy of my printer the best I can, and now the interlocking wrench holder file I printed has so much tolerance built into the model that they fall apart.

@ebryson , if you would post up your STL's I'd appreciate it. While the interlocking stuff is sexy, I think the one-piece ones are more practical.

 

[ebryson]

I encountered an interesting problem... I've tuned the dimensional accuracy of my printer the best I can, and now the interlocking wrench holder file I printed has so much tolerance built into the model that they fall apart.

@ebryson , if you would post up your STL's I'd appreciate it. While the interlocking stuff is sexy, I t hink the one-piece ones are more practical.

I have mine set to plus or minus .010 and that's been working great for me. Just when you're designing something you have to keep the tolerances in mind otherwise that is and issue.
I'll include both of the wrench designs. I've found anything above a 19mm (3/4 for you standard folk) has a hard time staying in the normal holder if you pull your wrench drawer out to hard.

 

[frieed]

what CAD software are you using?

 

[ebryson]

what CAD software are you using?

I am using Auto CAD Fusion 360. They'll try to tell you that you need to pay for it but if you get a personal use account you have up to 10 working designs at a time. Once I'm done designing them I just save the stl file and delete the design off of Fusion 360. It's works for me pretty good.
https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/personal

Just below are some of my socket set holders. I like them because how versatile you can arrange the sockets.

 

[Herzog]

I encountered an interesting problem... I've tuned the dimensional accuracy of my printer the best I can, and now the interlocking wrench holder file I printed has so much tolerance built into the model that they fall apart.

@ebryson , if you would post up your STL's I'd appreciate it. While the interlocking stuff is sexy, I think the one-piece ones are more practical.

I noticed there were two different tolerances in that file package. I picked the 4 and they are pretty tight after cleaning up the base junk.

 

[ID Bronco]

I think this thread has taught me I need a friend with a printer, not a printer.

 

[frieed]

I noticed there were two different tolerances in that file package. I picked the 4 and they are pretty tight after cleaning up the base junk.

I found a similar one prior to you posting the URL for the one you used

 

[Tonkaman]

If I understand correctly, Klipper is running on the BTT_Octopus controller board and Mainsail is running on the RPi to provide the web GUI to run it. My printer can be driven via WiFi due to the capabilities of the RPi, but I prefer a wired Gb ethernet connection. I've seen some of my g-code files exceed 1 Gbyte when I have lot's of replicated parts in the build and the wired connection is just so fast..


I currently have mine set to 300 mm/s and 3000 mm/s/s acceleration with zero issues.
Perhaps I'll dial that up to 500 and 5000 and try to get input shaping running.


From what I've read, ABS and ASA tend to be more UV and heat resistant. That said, if the part is easily replaced, give PLA a try.

Generally, printers are spec'd by print volume. Mine is 350mmx350mmx350mm. You can print right to the edge of the plate but since you typically stick a flexible steel plate down onto a magnetic base plate, the exact location of the edges tends to wander a bit, say a few mm.

Bigger printers could have looser tolerances if the frame materials weren't scaled up as well.
High end printers may include a separate chamber heater.

Thanks! That’s very helpful info

 

[Cody]

I currently have mine set to 300 mm/s and 3000 mm/s/s acceleration with zero issues.
Perhaps I'll dial that up to 500 and 5000 and try to get input shaping running.

I'm sure this was mentioned somewhere, but what printer are you running?

 

[glockman]

Here is the plier rack I am using and like quite well. The only think I may change is to inset some magnets to lock it to the drawer.

Pliers Drawer Organizer by DadHacks

I found a few other plier holders on here but wanted to design one to fit my Husky Toolbox as well as trying to use as little filament as possible while printing as quick as possible. I currently print these with 0.6mm nozzle, 0.4 layer height and 100mm/s. Looks good enough to use in my toolbox...

www.thingiverse.com

 

[frieed]

I'm sure this was mentioned somewhere, but what printer are you running?

Voron 2.4 that I built from a kit

LDO Voron 2.4 R2 (Rev C) 3D Printer Kit

The LDO Voron 2.4 R2 (Rev C) 3D Printer Kit offers high-speed, quality 3D printing with a large build volume up to 350x350x350mm. It features a CoreXY design and comes with essential hardware, including pre-cut wiring and acrylic panels for an enclosure as well as premium components like the E3D...

www.matterhackers.com